- Haircuts and partings
- Soften the corners and break the parallel lines, mainly by keeping the ends of the hair away from the jaw. Length that stops exactly at the jaw is the cut to avoid, because a blunt horizontal ending on a horizontal jaw doubles the width you already have there; take it either to the chin with movement through the ends, or well past to the collarbone. A side part rather than a hard center part, waves rather than a poker-straight blowout, and layers starting around the cheekbone all introduce curves into an outline made of straight lines. A wispy side-swept fringe or a curtain fringe softens the forehead corners; a heavy blunt fringe cut straight across at the brow adds a third horizontal. Volume at the crown buys back some of the length the shape is short of, and a little volume at the temple stops the upper face from looking narrower than the jaw. A textured lob, a soft shag, long layers and a curly cut all suit this shape; a sharp one-length bob and a slicked-back center part with flat sides do not.
- Glasses and sunglasses
- Round and oval frames, and lighter construction than you might expect. Round metal, panto or P3 shapes, oval acetate, and cat-eyes with rounded rather than sharp outer corners all put a curve on a face built from straight lines. Thin metal, semi-rimless and rimless frames add less structure than heavy acetate, which matters here more than on any other shape, since a thick black rectangle sitting above a square jaw draws two parallel horizontals across the face. Frame width should be very slightly wider than the widest part of your face so the outline of the frame reads as the outer edge rather than the jaw. What to walk past: heavy square and rectangular acetate, and any strong browline or clubmaster whose top bar runs level and lands parallel to the jaw. For sunglasses, round aviators and oversized round frames are the reliable picks.
- Necklines and collars
- Curves at the neckline, and nothing that repeats a horizontal. A scoop, a round neck, a sweetheart, a soft cowl or a draped wrap top all read as curved; a soft V is fine, though a hard deep V with sharp edges is less good than a rounded one. Boat necks are the ones to skip, since the neckline runs level with and directly under the jaw, and so are stiff structured collars, square necklines and mandarin collars. A rounded Peter Pan collar or a soft open shirt collar both work. For necklaces, take a round pendant or a curved shape on an 18 to 22 inch chain, so it sits above the collarbone and puts a circle in the field of view; skip a rigid bar necklace or a wide flat collar piece sitting horizontally at the base of the neck.
- Earrings
- Curves, at medium scale, hanging at or just below the earlobe. Round hoops between one and one and a half inches, circular drops, teardrops, pearl studs, and any soft organic shape all contrast with the jaw rather than echoing it. Keep the movement: an earring that swings reads softer than one that sits rigid. What to avoid is the hard geometric stud — square, rectangular or triangular — and the long straight bar earring, especially one whose bottom end lands right at the jaw corner, which points at the exact feature the rest of the styling is softening. If you want length, take it in a shape that widens and rounds at the bottom rather than a straight line.
- Brow shape
- A soft arch, rounded at the peak rather than drawn to a point, sitting at about two-thirds of the way out. The brow is the one place on this face where adding a hard angle is genuinely counterproductive: a sharply angled brow above a sharply angled jaw makes the whole face read as a set of corners. The flat straight brow is the other one to avoid, since it adds a horizontal line parallel to the jaw and the hairline. Keep them full — a strong jaw carries a full brow well and a thin one looks stranded — but blend the edges rather than blocking them in with a hard outline, and keep the tail slightly curved as it comes down.
- Contour, blush and highlight
- Work on the jaw corner and nothing else on the perimeter. Take a matte shade one to two tones deeper than your skin and lay it on the outer corner of the jaw, starting below the earlobe and sweeping forward along the bone, stopping well short of the chin; blend upward toward the ear so the corner reads as a curve rather than an edge. Leave the forehead and the sides of the face alone, since the width there is not the issue. Blush goes rounded on the apples of the cheeks, slightly forward rather than swept out to the temple, which puts a soft circle in the middle of a straight-sided face. Highlight the tops of the cheekbones and the center of the chin. For lips, a softly rounded shape suits the face better than a hard-lined cupid's bow; blur the edges of a strong lip with a fingertip rather than drawing it sharply.