- Haircuts and partings
- Add width low and take it away at the temples. Length at or below the chin, with the volume living from the jaw downward, gives the narrow lower face something to fill it out: a chin-length bob with a slight forward angle, a textured lob, layers that start at the jaw rather than at the cheekbone, and soft waves through the ends all do this. The most useful single change is a fringe. A curtain fringe parting at the center, or a side-swept fringe, covers part of the forehead width and softens the point of the hairline; if you have a widow's peak, a fringe is also the fastest way to stop it drawing a downward arrow at the top of your face. A deep side part helps for the same reason. What works against this shape is anything that maximizes the top: hair scraped back into a tight center-parted bun with nothing at the forehead, big volume at the crown and temples, and a very short pixie with all the height on top and nothing at the sides. Avoid heavy layers that stop at the cheekbone, since they add width exactly where the face has plenty.
- Glasses and sunglasses
- Weight at the bottom of the frame, lightness at the top. Rimless and semi-rimless frames with the rim only along the lower edge, aviators, ovals, round shapes, and frames with a thin or pale upper rim over a darker lower one all shift the visual mass downward toward the narrow part of the face. Frame width should be no wider than your forehead — this is the one shape where a frame wider than the face is a mistake, because it extends the widest line you have. Keep the temple arms attached low, at or below the midpoint of the lens. What to avoid: heavy decorated top rims, embellished or contrast-colored temple arms sitting high, and a strong upswept cat-eye, all of which pile width and detail onto the temples. Butterfly and oversized frames tend to do the same thing.
- Necklines and collars
- Width at the shoulders and the collarbone, to answer the width at the brow. A boat neck, a wide scoop, an off-shoulder top, a cowl, a spread shirt collar worn open, and a square neckline all put a horizontal low on the frame and balance the wedge. Halters and deep narrow V-necks are the ones to reconsider, because they repeat the inward taper the face already has, as does a plunging surplice. For necklaces, short is better than long: a 14 to 16 inch choker or a 16 to 18 inch collar sits at the widest part of the neckline and reinforces it, where a long pendant on a 28 inch chain draws a second point below the chin and doubles the effect you are trying to soften.
- Earrings
- Wider at the bottom than at the top. Teardrops, pear shapes, chandeliers that fan outward, triangle shapes pointing down, and any drop that gains width as it falls all add mass at jaw level where the face is narrowest. Length to the jawline or an inch past it is the useful zone; much longer and the earring finishes below the chin and lengthens the same wedge. What to skip is the top-heavy shape — a wide flat statement stud filling the earlobe, or a cluster that sits high and wide near the temple — and a narrow linear drop, which repeats the vertical taper. Medium to large hoops work well, since the widest part of the circle falls at the jaw.
- Brow shape
- Keep the arch low and soft. A high, sharply arched brow adds apparent height to a forehead that is already the widest and most noticeable part of the face, so a rounded or gently angled arch with the peak set no further out than the outer edge of the iris is the better shape here. Do not let the tails run long and low toward the temple, which stretches the widest line wider; keep them ending at the point where a line from the outer nostril past the outer corner of the eye would cross. A brow of moderate thickness suits this face better than a very bold one, since a heavy brow adds another horizontal band across the top of a wedge.
- Contour, blush and highlight
- Take width off the top and put light at the bottom. Lay a matte shade one to two tones deeper than your skin along the outer edges of the forehead where it meets the hairline at the temples, and blend upward and outward; a light touch in the hollow under the cheekbone is optional and should stop well short of the mouth. Then do the opposite at the chin: highlight the center of the chin and along the front of the jaw, which pushes the narrowest part of the face forward and makes it read wider. Blush goes on the apple of the cheek and sweeps slightly forward and down toward the mouth rather than up to the temple, since an upward sweep sends the eye to the part of the face that already has the width. For lips, keeping the lower lip full and the shape slightly wider than your natural line adds weight at the bottom of the face.